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Lynn Hill
Height: 5' 1"
Approximate Birth Year/ Passing: 1961
Started Climbing: 1975
Climbing forte: Rock and Big Wall
Accomplishments:
1979 First Ascent of Ophir Broke, Colorado 5.12/13a
1991 First 5.14 by a woman: Masse Critique 5.14a, Cimai France
1992 First free ascent of El Capitan
1994 Free free ascent of El Cap's Nose Route in a Day
Organizations:
Access Fund
History:
I had the pleasure of meeting and talking to Lynn at her slide show "25 years of climbing" here in Chicago on March 29, 2000. The photography was magnificent and her adventures are to be admired. Here is a summary of her 25 years. Lynn started climbing at the age of 14. Her older brother and sisters took her out and taught her the ropes, literally, at Joshua Tree. At the time harnesses weren't being used so Lynn started with a swiss seat. In addition the climbing technology wasn't nearly as advanced, top-roping wasn't an option, so Lynn's first climb was on lead. Scary way to start, heh? By the age of 16 Lynn made her way to Yosemite. Her boyfriend at the time wanted to do Half Dome, how could she turn him down? Her first taste of a Big Wall. Her boyfriend just happened to be John Long (most of the how to rock climb books were authored by him). At the time she was considered "John Long's girlfriend", but things were soon to change. By 1983, Lynn was 22 and climbing at the Shawangunks in New York. It was here that she climbed her first 5.13. Fonte blue, Verdon Gorge was up next in 1986. Lynn redpointed 'Take it or Leave It' 5.12d. Climbing competitions also just started becoming popular that year, Catherine Destiville took the Arco title home. Lynn's first outdoor competition was in France the next year. She was hoping to take on Catherine Destiville, but Catherine didn't compete to battle for her title. Lynn won the Arco the next two years, beating Catherine Destiville the second year. The first American International competition was held that same year at Snowbird Lodge, Lynn won again. In 1988 Lynn got her first contract with Chouniard. For the first time Lynn was able to get paid for what she loved doing so much. Her trips included the Needles in California, Mount Lemmon in Arizona, Hueco Tanks in Texas, and Smith Rocks in Oregon. It was here that Lynn worked a route by the name of 'Rude Boys', a 5.13. A trip to her beloved Yosemite also was in store. She climbed the Bachar Yuir route in Toulemne Meadows using no power drills, a clean aid climb. New River Gorge was up next. A trip across the atlantic brought Lynn to France once again. While there for a competition, Lynn happened upon a climb by the name of Masse Critque in Cimai in 1991. Masse Critique just happened to be a 5.14. Lynn worked the climb for 9 days out of her 14 allotted for her trip and became the first woman to climb .14. Later that year she moved to France. The fact that cliffs happen to be only an hour's drive in any direction made it that much easier to move. Having done so well in the World Climbing Circuit Lynn decided that 92 would be her last year competing. Hans Florine happened to call her up and ask if she wanted to join him on a quick run up El Cap (???). They ended up doing it in 8 hours 15 minutes. The Next year Lynn returned to Yosemite with Simon (?) to attempt a free climb of the Nose route on El Cap. Simon ran out of time and had to return to his homeland. Lynn recruited Brook Sarell(?) to continue on the do the first free ascent of the Nose. In a four day push they made it to the top. Their most troublesome sections were the Great Roof and the pitch above Camp 6, not previously climbed free. Lynn, having such a small frame, had the advantage. Her small fingertips fit in the tiny crack of the Great Roof and the Camp 6 section required much work. It was a very awkward section where Lynn ended up using only opposing force and friction in order to make it up. Precise movements and masterful contortions brought about Lynn's name for the move: the Houdini. Brook attempted the Camp 6 pitch, but his height was to his disadvantage. Having done a feat that no one else had done before, Lynn wanted something more. Why not top her own record and try a 24 hour ascent of the Nose? September , 1994 Lynn and her filming crew started up El Cap. Lynn made her way up to the pitch before the Great Roof. By this time she had run out of chalk, and was getting tired. She had a hard time with the Great Roof section, falling several times. They were low on water and food and needed to finish the climb. They gave up on the all free day ascent and decided to give it another try 2 weeks later, by the light of the full moon. Lynn felt much more positive. They had started earlier, had plenty of water and food, and extra chalk. They made it the Great Roof and she made it on her first try. Lynn was ecstatic. One of the hardest sections and she had made it. She and Steve had time to have lunch and relax while the noon sun moved along the sky. After waiting five hours Lynn decided that it was time. It was too soon, the rock was still too hot, and after sitting for five hours.... Lynn took a fall. She knew she couldn't waste any more energy or else she wouldn't be able to finish the rest of the pitches. After regrouping she started again, this time the rock was cool enough and her mindset was ready. The 29th pitch called for the Houdini, with no problem Lynn continued on.
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