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This feature article was snagged from About AMGA and UIAGM
Certification and Accreditation in the United States
The American Mountain
Guides Association has for some years provided
voluntary guides training and certification to a national
standard in the main guiding disciplines of Rock Climbing,
Alpine Mountaineering, and Ski Mountaineering (backcountry
skiing). These three disciplines are the ones recognized and
certified by the standard-setting international guides
organization known as the UIAGM, or in English the IFMGA
(International Federation of Mountain Guides' Associations).
The AMGA has become a member association, and the U.S. a
member country, of this international body. The other member
countries of the UIAGM are Germany, France, the UK, Italy,
Japan, Canada, New Zealand, Norway, Austria, Peru, Sweden,
Switzerland, Slovakia, Slovenia, and Spain. While UIAGM
certification programs go back many years in some member
countries, the AMGA's guides’ training and certification
programs are relatively new, having been developed largely
over the course of the last 8-9 years. A guide who is AMGA certified in Rock, Alpine
Mountaineering or Ski Mountaineering has demonstrated
competence to an internationally recognized standard in a wide
range of guiding skills demanded by that discipline, during
the course of an extensive (usually a week to 10 day)
examination in the field by qualified examiners This exam is
usually preceded by several weeks of training in the guiding
skills and techniques of the discipline - depending on the
guide's previous experience. Many excellent American guides are not certified due to
many factors, most notably the young age of the AMGA's
programs and its national standard of guides qualification and
training; the fact that so far neither guide services nor
public agencies require it; and also the large investment of
time and money required to achieve it, many U.S. guides are
not yet certified. You can be sure that certified guides have
passed the tests described above. However, lack of
certification is not a reason to reject a guide or guide
service–especially one that comes highly recommended and has a
good track record in the business. The AMGA also has a program of accrediting guide services
and climbing schools. This is an on-site review of business
practices, usually 2 days in length, by 2 reviewers chosen
jointly by the AMGA and the business being reviewed.
Administrative practices and materials are reviewed, from
hiring and training policies to van maintenance and equipment
logs. Accreditation is meant to be contextual, not
prescriptive, and is intended to provide information regarding
the business integrity, legality and responsibility of the
service. It is NOT meant to be a field review of the guides'
competence, and does NOT represent a standard of guiding
skill, experience or training. Businesses only, not
individuals, can be accredited, just as only individuals, not
businesses, can be certified. To receive accreditation, the service applies to the AMGA
for an accreditation review and pays a fee. The AMGA and the
school select a team of 2 reviewers and schedule the review.
The reviewers visit the school, spending one day going over
office procedures and paperwork, and one day visiting a class
or climb in the field. The reviewers then write up a report
with any suggested or required changes, which the business
responds to. The AMGA Board of Directors reviews the report
and and response, decides whether the required changes have
been adequately complied with, and votes to approve or not
approve the accreditation. |
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