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This feature article was snagged from Ice axes and tools are designed for a
variety of uses. At one end of the spectrum are ice tools for
high angle technical waterfall ice while at the other are
general mountaineering axes meant for walking, glacier
crossing and snow climbing. Axes suitable for technical alpine
climbing often have a blend of characteristics from both ends
of the spectrum. While some versatility can be found, it is
important to know how you are most likely to use your tools
and choose design features appropriate to the
terrain. Waterfall Ice
Tools A typical waterfall ice tool is fairly
short (usually 50 centimeters), and often has a bent shaft to
improve reach and placement in featured ice, reduce fatigue on
wrists, reduce knuckle bashing and keep hands warmer by aiding
circulation. It has a drooped pick that aids in hooking and
stays in place in steep ice. Interchangeable pick and
adze/hammer units allow you to buy replacements and use
specialized components. These tools often come in a variety of
adze shapes and styles. Women shopping for ice tools should
look for a tool that is light in weight while still having
sufficient "heft" in the head to make placements feel easy and
secure. The feeling of secure placement can be somewhat
subjective, and it may take some experience and
experimentation to find out what tool feels easiest to place.
It’s often a good idea to rent or borrow ice tools until you
can get a feel for what works best for you. Climbers with
smaller hands will find that a smaller shaft can make a big
difference in reducing hand fatigue. Generally, there is a
trend toward lighter tools with slender shafts, which is great
for women. A thin pick has great advantages. In
general a thin pick will perform better because it shatters
and displaces the ice less than larger picks. This performance
feature compromises strength and durability, and thin picks
will break more readily, so you will need to buy more of them.
However, smaller climbers tend to climb more delicately to
compensate for less brute strength, so they may be easier on
thin picks. Pick durability also depends on where you climb,
the amount of rock you encounter, your appetite for mixed
routes, your aim, your temper, and other factors. Mountaineering
Axes Mountaineering axes are longer, with
straight shafts. For use self-belaying on steeper snow slopes
and for occasional use as an ice climbing tool, get a 60
centimeter axe. If you intend to use it primarily as a walking
stick or balance aid on low angle slopes or easy glacier
crossings, go for 70 centimeters. The pick on a mountaineering
axe is gently curved to help it dig into snow when
self-arresting. The shape also is easier on your hand when
walking. The pick is thicker, and generally not
interchangeable. The adze is flatter, slightly curved, and
broad for effective step chopping. For general mountaineering, and
especially for ski mountaineering, light weight is important
because of the time spent carrying the axe. The less often you
use the axe, or the less technical the use will be, the more
important weight is relative to performance. The choice of axe
depends on a realistic assessment your use and your technical
needs, in order to get the right balance between weight and
technical performance. Technical Alpine
Axes These axes combine features of general
mountaineering axes with features of waterfall ice tools.
Typically, a technical axe might have a straight shaft and a
thin pick with some droop in it. Again, get the lightest axe
with the performance characteristics that you require for the
type of routes you will be doing. Favor performance over light
weight for truly technical routes. Go to Tools
.
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